Refashioning Couture – Constructing the Lemon Grove Dress | Champagne Twist


Refashioning Couture

refashioning couture icon

The Lemon Grove Dress

The dress that has featured on many a fashion blog is soon to be homaged. Using no less than 2 By Hand London patterns, I attempted to create a dress inspired by the  D&G lemon print dress, at a fraction of the cost.

Dolce and Gabbana lemon print dress.
Dolce and Gabbana lemon print dress.

Picture source: http://www.matchesfashion.com

The aim of this project is to prove that it’s possible to make a couture style wardrobe, without needing a millionaire’s budget. Check out the previous posts here, Post 1 and Post 2.

Fabric selection and notions

The choice was simple – the 100% cotton lemon print, on a black background, has been selling in several haberdasheries for months I purchased mine from Pigeon Wishes’ etsy shop at £7 a meter.  I purchased 4 metres, but used less than 3.

I also used a high cotton content mix lining from my stash, which was purchased at approximately £2.50 a meter, of which I used approx 2.5 metres. It is light weight with a lovely, soft feel.

Material for the Lemon Grove Dress by Champagne Twist
Fabric selection for the Lemon Grove Dress by Champagne Twist

Notions used from my stash included a 40cm long invisible zip and 1 reel of black machine sewing thread.

I hacked 2 By Hand Patterns – The bodice from the Charlie Dress, adding the Charlotte pencil skirt, with flounced hem.

 

Picture sources: www.ByHandLondon.com

Fabric cutting

Cutting the main fabric was, thankfully, an uneventful process. Having previously made the Charlie dress bodice and drafted my own pencil skirt, cutting the pattern didn’t pose any issues. Unusually, I didn’t bother much about pattern matching, just ensured that the print didn’t cover or highlight things it shouldn’t!

Pattern alterations

Like the Charlie dress, I lengthened the bodice by 5 cm. I excluded the decorative collar, to leave a plain neckline.

lemon grove dress bodice detail – champagnetwist.com

 

I changed the skirt back zip opening to a left side opening, to match the bodice and for ease of wear. I cut the back skirt pattern on the fold, instead of cutting 2 separate pieces. It also resolved any need for pattern matching.

lemon grove dress by Champagne Twist
Back skirt view – lemon grove dress

The skirt was shortened by about 15 cm, to rest above the knee. This was for ease of walking and so I could attach the flounce. As the flounce is made from light weight cotton, it should have a nice movement as I walk. This is the only selection of the dress which will be unlined.

Construction

Note to self, don’t sew when you’re tired. At one point the lining of the front bodice was attached to the back skirt lining. I like to add my own spin to my clothes, but even that for me would have been a little avant garde! Still, my unpicking skills are improving, and it now only takes me 2 minutes to rip out a seam. In effect the black lining became a silver one (worse pun ever).

Bodice

The main bodice was as easy to make as for the Poppy Dress.

I changed my mind in regards to the elongated straps, opting for plain shoulder straps. I felt that the elongated bow straps added too much detail to an already busy piece. It would be also difficult to wear with a cardigan or other cover up in cooler temperatures.

Skirt

The Charlotte Skirt required a little more thought, as I changed the back zip to a side zip, and needed to ensure the waists of both the bodice and the skirt matched. I eliminated the skirt waistband, which meant the skirt waist was a few mm longer than the bodice waist. However, this extra fabric was easily absorbed into the seam allowance.

One thing I did not anticipate when adding the side zip opening, due to the shape of the skirt, I can’t pull the dress over my head. Instead I have to step through the side opening in order to put the dress on.  It’s no big deal, but it does take a little getting used to.

Lining

Adding the lining was simply a case of duplicating the patterns in lining fabric, then attaching to the main fabric from the neckline.

I completed the dress by hand stitching the hem.

Next time

The construction process has ended and it’s time for the reveal. How did the dress turn out? Why not subscribe so you’re notified as soon as my next post is published. Thanks for reading,

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Refashioning Couture – Planning the Lemon Grove Dress | Champagne Twist

Refashioning Couture

refashioning couture icon

Yesterday, I started a new series called Refashioning Couture, where I document my journey towards making a couture inspired wardrobe. For my first project, I’m making a dress based on the popular lemon print design by Dolce and Gabbana.

 

Dolce and Gabbana lemon print dress.
Lemon print on black background dress with fluted hem. Dolce And Gabbana. Picture source – Matchesfashion.com

 

Design Sketch

Recently, I started a sewing sketch book, where I draw out my ideas and include fabric swatches. It has proved to be a very useful tool and a fun way to keep track of my sewing projects.  Below is my sketch for the Lemon Grove dress.

lemon plan

 

Fabric Selection

The main fabric will be the lovely cotton print which I purchased from Pigeon Wishes over on Etsy. The print is a near perfect replica of the original, and the fabric itself is a lovely soft cotton.

After some thought, I decided to also fully line the bodice and half line the skirt with some black light weight cotton. This, I hope will help give the dress structure and longevity. I’m only half lining the skirt as it’s a Summer dress and I don’t want it to be too heavy or uncomfortable to wear in the heat.

lemon fabric

Method

I think the way to go about this design is to pattern hack not 1 but 2 patterns from the By Hand London collection.  Having successfully made the Charlie Dress, I think taking the bodice from that design and adding it to the Charlotte skirt, I can hack together a dress similar to the original D&G design.

Adjustments and Alterations

Bodice

This time around, for the bodice straps I will make long ties, which will be tied into bows at the top of the shoulders. I like this feature from the original, and I think it can work on my dress.

I am not going to add a collar to the bodice, as for this project, I would prefer a clean neckline. Every thing else will remain the same.

Skirt

I will shorten the hem, and add a longer flounce, as the current length while flattering,  may would be too restrictive for walking.  I like fashion, but I have no intention to suffer for it!!!

I’m eliminating the waist band, so I need to double check that the hem of the bodice matches the waist line of the skirt.

lemon dress plan

Next time

Cutting out time! I will not make a muslin because I live on the edge (actually I’m too excited to make a muslin – this could be dangerous!). I will also start the basic construction, reporting on any issues I may come across as I sew.

To find out what happens next on the Lemon Grove dress project, please subscribe to ensure you don’t miss out.

Thanks for reading,

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Refashioning Couture – new series | Champagne Twist

Refashioning Couture

Today, I’m starting a new series featuring sewing pattern hacks to create couture inspired clothing. Over the next few weeks, I plan to develop my hand made wardrobe, featuring pieces which I have either designed from scratch, or have adapted using independent sewing patterns as a base.

First up is a lemon print dress, inspired by the 2016 Dolce and Gabbana Spring Summer collection.

Background and Inspiration

I’m trying out something a little different with my new sewing project. As a fan of the recent Dolce and Gabbana couture collections, I have been inspired by their bold use of prints and colours. However the price margins are a little steep, and when I was able to buy a pair of trousers from the Harrods sale eons ago, sadly I found the quality wanting.

Some of you may recall my attempt to make a version of the daisy dress below. I still have not been able to source suitable daisy appliqués to start the project.

Dolce and Gabbana daisy embroidered dress.
Dolce and Gabbana daisy embroidered dress. Picture source – Farfetch.com

While searching in vain for the appliqués, I came across the lemon dresses from the same design house.

Dolce and Gabbana lemon print dress.
Lemon print on black background dress with fluted hem. Dolce And Gabbana. Picture source – Matchesfashion.com

 

Lemon print on white background dress with fluted hem. Dolce And Gabbana.
Lemon print on white background dress. Dolce and Gabbana. Picture source – Matchesfashion.com

Oh my, how I adore these summery dresses.

So how do I go about making an D&G inspired dress without forking out a fortune? The answer unexpectedly came via By Hand London (BHL).

I recently wrote about rediscovering my sewing mojo, and how the Charlie Dress pattern by BHL, had helped me to get back into my seamstress groove. I’m so pleased with how the dress, which I called the Poppy Dress, turned out. It was a joy to make and so much fun to wear.

Whilst studying the other BHL patterns, I came across the Charlotte Skirt, a simple pencil skirt which can be modified with a peplum or ruffle hem. Now I’m not a frilly girl by nature, but that ruffle hem caught my eye.

Then I had an idea …

Why not create a D&G dress, by combining the bodice of the Charlie dress with the Charlotte skirt?

 

Screen Shot 2017-06-30 at 23.41.54Screen Shot 2017-07-17 at 14.23.23

 

Next time

I will show my design sketch of the dress I hope to make and my fabric choices, as I embark on one of my most adventurous sewing projects yet.

Please subscribe to ensure you don’t miss out. Thanks for reading and see you soon 🙂

Thanks for reading,

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